I have to confess that, despite over 10 years working in the fashion industry and a lifetime of living it, there are some hallowed designers that I just don’t get. Others have DNA that makes perfect sense. Henry Holland falls into the latter category. Back in 2006, he grabbed the fashion headlines, with his irreverent slogan T’s – “Get Yer Freak On Giles Decon” and “I’ll Show You Who’s Boss Kate Moss.” And his work today, hasn’t lost that tongue in cheek edge.
If his AW15 catwalk show were a film, it would be titled “East End Girl Meets Glamour.” For, whilst the show oozed the type of cool only a girl living in the heart of Hackney can muster, every garment was über clean and shiny. Not an ounce of grime resided here. For a man who by day works in an office in London Fields and by night parties with pals Daisy Lowe and Pixie Geldof, I guess this is not much of a surprise. The lux sheen bomber jacket was a great example. Paired with his oversized gingham check trousers, and masculine black flats, the colours clashed wonderfully. A slightly more ladylike take on this theme, was the midi chevron waisted dress worn with a super fluffy fur coat.
Punk references, influenced every outfit. Hardwear was key, with many outfits featuring a chunky zip or metal beading and/or D rings. Trousers were skin-tight and made of super glossy PU or were coloured mottled leggings. Fur was seen in a multitude of colours: purple, blue, baby pink and, for the more adventurous, striped in chevrons. The collection’s oversized gingham check was shown in many guises. A particular favourite, was seeing it tonal as a see-through dress, waisted with a shiny PU belt and silk neck scarf that featured in nearly every outfit.
Henry showcased a new take on traditional stripes, splicing them and sewing them back together with western style super sized stitches. The western vibe was also apparent through his use of a check in distinct colours, which he also spliced and mis-matched. Hemlines were asymmetric and playful with layers of fabric, notably netting, adding touches of femininity.
This was a collection where bright colours, pattern and texture reigned supreme. Henry cited futuristic worlds as the influence, with the films Fifth Element and Blade Runner being important. But there was something inherently British about some of the elements; think oversized gingham checks and silk neck scarves. But as ever it was served up with the razor sharp wit for which he is famous. As he said, “What do you call a fly with no wings? A walk.”
If you were at London Fashion Weekend, you may have been lucky enough to have purchased one of three T Shirts designed exclusively by Henry Holland for the event. Our catwalk host Angela Scanlon can be seen modelling hers below.
All photos by Rod Leon and must not be copied or distributed.