Pioneering Fashion: Mary Katrantzou

Spring feels like it is finally here, so I thought you might like a little non pregnancy style inspiration from the best. I saw this show when I was blogging for London Fashion Weekend. You don’t become an award-winning designer without a knack for innovation. Since graduating in 2008 from Central Saint’s Martin’s M.A., Mary Katrantzou’s evolving architectural and feminine designs have earnt her the prestigious New Establishment Award in 2015 at the British Fashion Awards. Her SS16 collection was no exception. From the lady who pioneered the use of digital print in fashion came a show that pushed the boundaries. As she herself said, “Playing it safe is not the done thing.”

Sparkles and sequins that are normally reserved for Christmas parties were displayed in abundance. She referenced the Roma gypsy culture as the starting point for inspiration, and you can see this reflected in the multitude of colours and patterns. Yet there was also an element of intergalactic sparkle and metallic zing, as just looking at one of her dresses was a bit like gazing into space on a dark night. Yet there was nothing heavy about the dresses; these shimmering wonders were short, floaty, and definitely flirty.

With an important nod to reality, the summer dresses were paired with knitted ribbed tights and vests. In her hands, socks with sandals are no longer the dominion of balding British tourists; instead they are given a new lease of life and elegant appeal. The eye make up, by Maybelline UK, was a pleasant surprise, with pops of blue eye shadow drawing you to the face.

With a mother who was an interior designer, it is hardly surprising to see Mary borrowing from decorative upholstery, notably here Victorian wallpapers. Particularly striking were the mixed florals on a quilted fabric. Florals are typically a signifier of summer, yet the combination of the texture and print mixing reinvented this tradition. The dress shapes were sculptured but decidedly feminine, with skinny waists and voluminous skirts and cuffs.

With ruffles, mesh details, deep plunging V’s, trousers over skirts and her signature choker, Mary has yet again produced a collection that is at the forefront of the fashion world. It’s this unique innovation that has made her absolutely instrumental in putting London on the map as the fashion capital.

Photos Rod Leon